Japanese Textiles and Yokohama World Quilt Festival

Okinawa is Japan’s southernmost prefecture. Known for its turquoise seas, coral reefs and distinct cultural heritage, it feels noticeably different from mainland Japan. Okinawa consists of over 150 islands, with Okinawa Island, where we will be based, being the largest and most populated. Historically, Okinawa was the centre of the Ryukyu Kingdom (15th-19th century), an independent maritime state that traded widely across East and Southeast Asia.

Okinawa is home to 16 nationally designated traditional crafts, 13 of which are dyed and woven textiles. Developed during the Ryukyu Kingdom era (1429 to 1879) through regional innovation and influence from Asian trade, these textiles reflect the cultural and environmental diversity of the islands. Each region nurtured its own techniques and styles, resulting in a rich variety that has shaped Okinawa’s textile culture today. We’ll explore some of these during our stay, as well as enjoying some free time for relaxing and personal sightseeing.

Bashofu is a traditional, handcrafted banana fibre known for its cool feel and unique kasuri (ikat) patterns. Once a widespread craft, it is now preserved primarily by the women of Kijoka village. Here, we’ll learn about the complex production process; from the cultivation of the ito-basho plant to hand-spinning, dyeing and weaving the fibres into beautiful fabrics for kimonos and other goods.

Historically reserved for royalty and the samurai class, Bingata is a vibrant, traditional Okinawan stencil dyeing technique using plant-based dyes and mineral pigments, known for its bold nature-inspired motifs in bright colours. We’ll visit the studio and shop of bingata master Makoto Fujisaki and try our hand at this traditional dyeing technique.

Ryukyu Kasuri Hall is the centre for traditional Okinawan kasuri (ikat) textiles. Here, we’ll learn about the history of Ryukyu Kasuri and discover how artisans use unique methods like tying (kuri) and stenciling (ezu) to create patterns related to Okinawan life.

Founded in 1996, Shiyon Weaving Studio was born from the collaboration of four skilled weavers. Weaving is done by hand using natural materials and traditional Okinawan techniques. Each weaver designs their own products and dyes their own threads, using both chemical and natural dyes. As we visit the studio, we’ll see some of the processes involved in crafting these high-quality, colourful items.

We’ll also visit Okinawa Prefectural Museum, a great place to learn more about Okinawa's unique culture and the studio of Seikichi Inamine (1940–2021), a highly renowned Okinawan glass artist who is often considered the most famous Ryukyu glass artist. His legacy is now continued by his son, Seiichiro.  Ryukyu glassware boasts extremely unique designs and vivid colours that reflect the island’s natural beauty. Inamine’s glassware differs from everyday Ryukyu glassware in that it uses naturally occurring ‘flaws’, such as bubbles, and materials like coral soil and activated charcoal as a signature design element.

We leave Okinawa and fly to Fukuoka.

Fukuoka Prefecture, on the northern shore of Kyushu Island, has a long and rich textile tradition blending historical craft techniques with contemporary uses. The region’s textile culture reflects centuries of development, local identity and ongoing innovation, and we’ll explore some of the region’s most iconic textiles during our time here.

Kurume Kasuri is a traditional Japanese cotton textile that originated in Kurume City, Fukuoka Prefecture. It is a type of kasuri (ikat) fabric, characterised by softly blurred patterns created through a resist-dyeing and weaving process. Known for its durability, comfort and understated beauty, Kurume Kasuri has been part of everyday Japanese life for over 200 years and has been officially designated as a Traditional Craft of Japan.

We’ll visit at least one of the many Karume Kasuri weaving operations in Fukuoka, where we’ll learn more about the 30 processes involved in creating the fabric, almost all of which are still done by hand. We’ll also try our hand at the resist dyeing process in the classic indigo colour of Kurume Kasuri fabrics.

Kokura-ori, first produced in Japan during the Edo period (1603-1868), is a thick, durable, and smooth cotton fabric known for its elegant striped patterns. The stripes, woven with pre-dyed threads, produce a sense of depth through subtle colour gradations. During a factory tour, we’ll gain a deeper understanding of the weaving process used to create Kokura-ori.

The most famous of Fukuoka's traditional arts and crafts are 'Hakata Ori' (woven textile) and 'Hakata Ningyo' (dolls), passed down through the ages by their craftsmen. At Hakata Traditional Craft & Design Museum, we’ll learn more about these traditional crafts.

We transfer by coach to Hakata and board the bullet train to Kyoto.

Kyoto, located in the Kansai region on the island of Honshu, is one of Japan’s most historically and culturally significant cities. Kyoto served as the imperial capital of Japan for over 1,000 years (794–1868). As a result, it is often regarded as the heart of traditional Japanese culture. Unlike many Japanese cities, Kyoto was largely spared from destruction during World War II, allowing it to preserve an extraordinary number of historic buildings, temples, shrines, and traditional neighbourhoods. It has long been a centre for traditional crafts, and we’ll learn more about these during our stay here, as well as visit some of the city’s iconic sites and enjoy some free time for relaxation and personal sightseeing.

Sashiko is a traditional Japanese embroidery and mending technique that originated over a thousand years ago. The word sashiko literally means “little stabs,” referring to the small, even running stitches used in the craft. Sashiko began in rural Japan as a practical solution; farmers and fishermen used it to reinforce worn clothing and to patch holes and tears. Today, it has evolved into a decorative embroidery art, traditionally using indigo dyed fabric and white cotton thread. We’ll visit a small sashiko atelier, where we’ll enjoy a hands-on workshop with a local expert.

Aizome is the traditional Japanese art of indigo dyeing using natural dye made from the fermented leaves of the indigo plant. The process is labour intensive, which is why aizome is considered a craft of patience and skill. We’ll visit a renowned family-run indigo-dyeing studio that specialises in producing high-quality natural indigo textiles using traditional Japanese methods. We’ll be introduced to the various fabrics and garments on offer and visit the museum tracing the history of the workshop.

Teramachi Street is an historic street best known today as a lively shopping arcade that blends traditional culture with modern city life. The street originated in the late 16th century when Toyotomi Hideyoshi, a local samurai, ordered many Buddhist temples to relocate to this area. Several still line or sit just off the street, preserving its original character despite urban development. We’ll spend some time here, enjoying the co-existence of historical and contemporary life and the wide range of both traditional and modern shops.

Kiyomizu Temple, one of Kyoto’s most iconic temples, is a Buddhist temple which forms part of the Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is in the foothills of Mount Otowa, part of the Higashiyama mountain range that dominates eastern Kyoto. The main hall has a large veranda, supported by tall pillars that jut out over the hillside and offers commanding views of the city.

We travel by bullet train to Tokyo.

Lying at the head of Tokyo Bay, Tokyo is part of the Kantō region, on the central coast of Honshu, Japan's largest island. It is Japan's economic centre and the seat of the Japanese government and the Emperor of Japan. The city seamlessly mixes the ultramodern and the traditional, offering everything from neon-lit skyscrapers to historic temples. Our focus during our time here will be on the textiles and traditional crafts on offer, as well as having free time to relax and explore at leisure.

Nippori Fabric Town makes for an exciting adventure for fabric aficionados with over 90 shops selling everything from fabrics, leather, buttons and zippers to beads. Tomato is probably the neighbourhood’s most famous, boasting several shops along the main street and a main building that stretches over a whopping five floors.

Nuno Textiles is an innovative textile design and manufacturing company. Since their conception in 1984, Nuno has worked exclusively with weavers and dyers in Japan, combining old practices with new technologies to create textiles that are original, distinctive, and fresh; think silk interwoven with real bird feathers and a fabric made with layers of washi paper adhered together.

Meiji Jingu Shrine is one of Tokyo’s most important and serene Shinto shrines, dedicated to Emperor Meiji and Empress Shōken, who played a central role in Japan’s modernisation. Completed in 1920, the shrine was destroyed during the World War and reconstructed in 1958 using public donations. Our visit here will be a welcome break from the hustle and bustle of the city and an opportunity to learn more about Shinto rituals.

Tomita Sen Kougei, founded in 1882, is one of Tokyo’s oldest dye studios. The studio is home to five nationally certified 'Masters of Traditional Craft,'  making it one of the few studios in Japan with this level of expertise. Here, we’ll observe a demonstration using Edo Komon and Edo Sarasa techniques and then create our own hand-dyed item. Edo Komon is a form of fine stencil dyeing originally used for samurai garments. Its delicate, repeating patterns are so small they resemble solid colours from a distance yet reveal intricate beauty up close. Edo Sarasa features bold, seasonal patterns and natural motifs in slightly muted tones, rendered with Japanese stencil techniques. Tokyo remains the only place where it is still authentically produced.

Fujiya Dyeing Workshop, founded in 1952, specialises in hikizome (brush dyeing) custom-made, one-of-a-kind pieces. The method, developed in Japan during the first half of the Edo period (1603-1868), uses a brush to dye textiles evenly or blurred without soaking in a dye solution. We’ll enjoy a workshop here, drawing our own design on lightweight cotton using the hikizome technique.

The World Quilt Festival in Yokohama, one of the world’s largest, includes an exhibition of around 150 competition quilts, workshops for all levels, a gallery of works from famous quilters and plenty of retail opportunities. We’ll spend a full day here, before returning to our hotel for a farewell dinner.